Follow-up post on From Canon to Leica where I swapped over from Canon to the Leica ecosystem during COVID.
Terms used throughout the post
- DSLR > Canon 5D3
- Mirrorless > Sony A7R3
My first rangefinder
The M10 is my first rangefinder, and it's taken me a while to get experience with it, partly because of timing issues like the global COVID lockdown.
Coming from an all auto-focus background, migrating to a rangefinder can be challenging at first.
Shoot and walk away
With autofocus out of the way, I miss the blind shoot-and-pray with DSLRs/Mirrorless.
Having shot many events (and with much practice), it has become a skill/habit where I can shoot blind, with nearly 90% of the targeted subject in focus, not only from the waist down but also top-down, with a 16-35mm or 24-70mm wide lens @ f2.8.
This skill set is invaluable in capturing spontaneous shots during an event.
With the M10 and my current rangefinder skill level, this shooting form doesn't work unless I shoot at f5.6 minimum. Even with zone focusing, I am still not comfortable with the focus gauge, since I can't estimate distances. Let alone losing out on the bokeh when you need it.
Time will tell whether I can apply this skill to the M10 as I explore more and hone my focusing skills.
Minimum Focus Distance
If you have used devices that let you take photos from a close distance, prepare to be shocked by the MFD of Leica M lenses
| Lens | Minimum Focus Distance |
|---|---|
| Leica Summicron-M 28 f/2 ASPH. | 0.70m (Live View 0.40m) |
| Leica Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 ASPH. | 0.70m (Live View 0.45m) |
| Sigma 50MM F1.4 DG HSM | 0.40m |
| Canon EF 16-35MM F/2.8L II USM | 0.28m |
| Canon EF 24-70MM F/2.8L II USM | 0.38m |
Assuming we use the rangefinder to focus, it depends a lot on the environment/setting and whether MFD will matter.
Imagine yourself in a packed restaurant or cafe and wish to take that nice creamy shot with the 50lux at f1.4. Before you bump(butt) into someone else or distance yourself to an angle that allows you to focus without changing too much from the initially intended frame, you may be better off switching to a 35mm or wider lens, or an iPhone.
Travel Safety Paramount
Outdoors, MFD issues are less apparent but not completely gone.
Imagine you would like to capture a close-up of a statue during your travels. You need to be mindful of your surroundings and distance for that particular shot/frame; you get the idea.
Sure, you can bring many lenses with you, assuming we have the following imaginary kit:
- 21mm
- 50mm
- 75mm
Now, that is not a compact kit. Will you lose the street moment when changing lenses? If you use the M lenses for travel, it will be less suitable overall.
In that case, I would go with the Leica Q series, which lets you switch to macro mode with a slide (food photos) and still get autofocus and the blind shoot.
Centre focus tendency
With the rangefinder patch in the middle, subjects tend to be centre-focused. I have spent a lot of time learning and switching to the 5D's multi-controller to move focus points, since that guarantees focus is on the spot and removes focus shifts from body-reframing movement.
While focus shifts from body reframing are more obvious with DSLRs, reframing isn't much of a problem for me, but it may be for you if you want tack-sharp focus on subjects while trying to align them to the thirds or any other rule.
The oomph!
My thoughts on the M system may seem on the opposing end, as they are highly relevant to and affected by my shooting style, habits, and experiences. Let me start with the good.
Weight
The M10 may look compact compared to a DSLR or Mirrorless camera with a pro lens, but the body's weight isn't.
| Camera | Weight (with Battery) | 50mm lens | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leica M10 | 660g | 337g (50lux) | 0.9kg (997g) |
| Leica M10 | 660g | 257g (28cron) | 0.9kg (917g) |
| Sony A7R 3 | 657g | 815g (Sigma 50 ART) | 1.4kg (1472g) |
| Canon EOS 5D Mark III | 950g | 815g (Sigma 50 ART) | 1.7kg (1765g) |
My usual event kit uses a 5D3 with a battery grip, which is about 870g + 260g (grip) + 80g + 80g (batteries), totalling 1290g for the body before attaching a lens. That's easily 2kg with the Sigma 50 ART above.
With a dual camera strap, I hang the other spare 6D with one of the Canon f2.8 trinity lenses. This reduction in size and weight is a very welcome improvement for my trained wrist.
On the table, the Sony A7R3 feels "okay" to hold, but in reality it isn't comfortable during longer sniping periods, as the weight distribution shifts forward when the lens (+Metabones Adaptor for Canon lenses) is heavier than the body.
- ✅ FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM II - 547g
- ✅ FE 24-70mm F2.8 GM II - 695g
- 😣 FE 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS II - 1045g
Over a 6-hour event, your wrists will get a workout. You can still work around this by using a professional single/dual strap and letting it sling.
Compact Tank
These M bodies feel and touch like tanks. They may be heavy for beginners, but they feel right at home for me. The overall weight balance gives you a sturdy, stable, in-control touch.
The M10 body size may be small for my hands, as I have longer fingers than most Asian men. Fortunately, after some time with it, it didn't cause any long-term discomfort.
Full-Frame Goodness
Full-frame's a bare requirement for any camera I own.
My previous experiences with APS-C and MFT (Fuji, Olympus, Canon EOS 500/Kiss) sensor sizes didn't sit right with me. When you open your photos in Lightroom, it feels rather bland.
With camera improvements across the board over the years, like the Fuji X100 and Ricoh GR range, that may have changed.
Going into the medium format would be the next level if I were to pursue photography again.
M Lenses
With reference to my previous Leica Q post, my thoughts on M lenses remain true. These lenses are what make the M system shine.
3D Pop - Focus Pull - Bokeh
With correct focus, images taken with M lenses have a 3D pop.
Many reviews go into the technical details of bokeh rendering, focus pulls, distortions, etc. I won't discuss that, as rendering is highly subjective to preference and, in my experience, to one's ability and perception of detail, whether natural or developed through experience.
The images produced by the M have a "realness" to them. Looking at them, you can almost feel the object or the person's emotions.
Rangefinder focusing
Aligning objects on a patch differs from manual focus on a modern DSLR when using a rangefinder. The experience also differs when viewing through the lens (TTL) versus an optical viewfinder.
I mainly shoot with both eyes open and swap the central eye depending on the situation or my feelings. This isn't as obvious a change from my DSLR days, but it does get me more involved with the actual scene, as you view it whole rather than through the lens. Hokkaido 2023
Pacing
As an event photographer, my flow is as follows:
- Aim subject
- Target
- Shoot and walk away
- (optional) Chimp
On the M10 (as a new rangefinder user)
- Aim subject
- Target
- Focus rangefinder
- Shoot
- Chimp 😢
- Walk away
The overall composition and framing that slows you down gives you a more involved shot. The result isn't just another digital blob of binary data; it's a "photograph" you have spent your time and effort on.
Hopefully, with more practice, I do not need to chimp as much to ensure my shots are in focus, while still maintaining the same discipline.
Mixing them up
Any camera system is a tool for painting a photo.
After some time in the industry, I put photographers into two categories: the shutter pressers and the artists.
Shutter Presser
Shutter pressers capture moments in an environment; "creating" a scene is impossible or a low priority. These photographers primarily work in Street, Photojournalism, Landscape, Event, and Sports photography, to name a few.
Artist
Artists create the scene they envisioned before taking the shot by moving themselves (framing) or changing it directly. These photographers (or directors) primarily work in Portraiture, Abstract, Food, and Fashion photography, to name a few.
The Balance
Your situation or shoot will determine which role best suits producing relevant photos.
When we break them down, an experienced street photographer waits for the person to get in the frame (vision) and then uses their shutter-pressing skills (timing and other technical camera aspects) to create the photo.
An experienced artist/director changes the model's expression, pose, hair, clothing, and studio furniture. Technical aspects matter less during the shoot; you still need the knowledge, but you set up lighting and camera settings before you begin.
Event Photographer
As a shutter presser, I sometimes need to be in "Artist" mode. By default, I am on 6:4, with 6 being the shutter-presser. It is a mindset in general, and the mindset you use for each situation will greatly help you produce relevant results.
During my first studio experience working with an amateur model, I just stood there waiting for "scenes" to happen (Shutter Presser). While it was a learning experience for both parties, you are then required to give directions, set up your lighting, etc, to create the "scene". From a 10:0 shutter presser, you will need to change it up and go 2:8, with priority in creating the scene.
The M10 rangefinder experience puts me roughly at 4:6, leaning toward an artist. Not to say that most people who use the M rangefinders are artists; it's the thought and physical process behind it. If we imagine everyone has perfect rangefinder focusing and zone-focusing skills, the M10 can and will snap just like any other camera body.
In an event, you may not have the luxury of creating a scene, although past experiences and camera skills play a big part in how you blend/lead them together.
Most event subjects (Wedding and concert, for example) do not stay still, and I counter this by tapping/half-pressing the shutter multiple times before the final press to ensure focus on the DSLR/Mirrorless.
By taking out autofocus and using your other arm for manual focus, the variables that can lead to an unusable photo or missed opportunity are high (add-in: no ETTL for third-party flashes, and flash sync speed is limited to 1/180s).
The above is just one scenario where the photographer is still; what about when you are moving/tracking the subject?
The M rangefinders are not recommended as a modern event tool
As an event photographer, I would require more practice to smooth the shooting process. It is very easy to just read that previous sentence; there's a toll on your eyesight, and most likely mental as well, depending on focus confidence, and you still have 4 hours left for the event.
Results
What matters, rather than the experience or any form of camera review, are the results of your photographs.
An artistic photographer may find it acceptable to focus on the cake, while the customer/couple may want their faces in focus.
There's no pleasing everyone, but I could get two shots of that scene, one with the couple in focus, with the DSLR/Mirrorless AF, in less than 2-4 seconds.
That's how fast and unforgiving it is in an event environment before I have to preemptively move to an angle for the next winning/must-have shot.
Abstract
It's not my strong forte, but I sometimes come across a shot that depicts a personal feeling.
The M lenses' low distortion, clarity, sharpness, and rendering help convey this feeling very well. It may be due to my age (born in 1985), but abstract shots from my DSLR days don't carry the same emotions.
Eye Vision
As I get older, my vision also starts to deteriorate, which means that looking through the optical viewfinder for focus depends on whether my eyes, spectacles, or contact lenses are in focus.
If you wear spectacles, note that you will lose a full view of the rangefinder.
Conclusion
This post took a while to write while I consolidated my early experiences.
I got to "review" it with technological improvements in iPhones and improved AI in mirrorless bodies over the past few years. Recently, we have also seen the emergence of image-generation systems like Midjourney.
Not so Modern
As of 2024, most camera brands offer the same still-image features, aside from video capabilities.
Put the megapixels aside
If you are not a building/billboard-sized print photographer or a Fashion/Product photographer, stop focusing on sensor megapixels when buying your next camera.
Camera image sensors will keep improving. Don't get me wrong: a high-megapixel sensor helps capture a more detailed and accurate scene, but consider whether you need it for your use case.
Unless your shooting environment requires you to crop in as much as possible, like Aerial Photography, these are just pointers; you should already know what you plan to shoot.
Remember to factor in the other "hidden" costs, like needing more external hard disk space to store your RAW files.
Right tool for the job
The M10 (or even the newer M11) will lack features, but that is not why you are researching purchasing a Leica rangefinder in the first place.
Considering a Leica camera and other brands is like walking into an art shop to look for your next brush. The Leica rangefinders will feel like a very expensive mechanical pencil that does one job correctly. At the same time, mirrorless bodies are like multi-coloured ballpoint pens in different models with fewer or more colours, and they come with a pencil feature, too!
I could have similar experiences when I walk into a drum cymbal shop. As a drummer, if one cannot value (hear) the difference in tone and ambience of the various cymbal sounds, you are not ready to buy into Leica's range of products.
From an Event Photographer's perspective, I would go for another brand like Canon or Nikon because of their large variety of lenses and accessories. The keep rate of photos (auto-focus) increases manyfold, and the time for you to profit from your shoots (after making edits) will be greatly reduced.
Experience
Even with improvements from other camera brands or the M11's higher megapixels, Leica rangefinders still have a place in the camera industry.
The process of taking photographs can and will only get faster and more convenient over time, meaning the "experience" will be short or non-existent. We now have AI systems like Midjourney that can generate photos for you.
It is a worrying and exciting time.
If you value the experience of taking a photo like in the old days, the Leica rangefinders have an alluring, solid charm, and you will benefit the most from it.
Retiring
If you are like me, either having been a professional or retiring from the industry, and looking to trade all your equipment, the Leica rangefinder ecosystem is one of the ways you can migrate. You may also want to look into medium-format ecosystems like the newer, more compact Hasselblad bodies (X2D).
New photographers
Taking it serious
If you are starting out, I recommend something other than a rangefinder camera. It would be best not to let the "process"/manual focusing of taking photos hinder your photo results.
Your current priority should be to hone your technical skills and knowledge so you can keep a high percentage of your photos. What about photo culling and editing?
The first few photography requests will be very "Event" -ish, where the results are not blurry photos of your relatives/friends.
A starting combination of the following:
- x1 Leica M10/M11
- x1 Leica 50mm lens
The total price will land you in the "pro" range of other camera brands like Sony, Canon, and Nikon.
You can even mix it up by purchasing a mid-range camera body. With the spare change, get one pro-grade zoom lens and another prime lens, which makes more sense as you can experiment with more angles and get some experience producing bokeh.
Chill Ride and Hobbyists
You've used someone's rangefinder before and have become curious. From above, determine if you are mainly an artist or a shutter presser.
Artists
You will feel at home with the rangefinder and "creating" a photograph.
Shutter Pressers
Besides the recommended Leica Q, other brands may be more accessible in terms of price, like the Fujifilm X100 series and the Ricoh GR range of cameras. Your priority is to take photos that make you happy and, most importantly, in focus. You can always blur out in-focus pictures if that is what you want in post-editing, but not vice versa.
Closing
Hope this M10 experience post provided some insights into using the Leica rangefinders.
New revolutionary features like Eye-AF in newer bodies will probably negate the need for blind-shoot techniques. The rangefinders will not help when you need that one-hand weird angle snap at f1.4.
Despite its shortcomings for my shooting style, the Leica rangefinder helped me evaluate and be more critical in "making" a photograph.
Consider your photo results. If you prioritise fast, on-focus action snaps, the rangefinder may not be a good fit from the start, but it still has a chance, depending on the user's manual-focusing skill level.
When given a choice to have just one still image camera, the M10 attached with the Summilux 50mm deserves a permanent spot in my dry box:
- Compact and 35mm full-frame quality
- Great for photo walks
- Great glass quality, bokeh and clarity
Thank you for reading!
